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"Hello, my name is Thomas Manning. I have put
together some questions and answers for you."
We have a Team of highly experienced Billiard Fitters
who can answer your questions and solve any problem you have
Free of Charge! Call 0151 494
0213
Commonly asked Questions About Cues
Q: I have purchased a Cue & I need a Cue Case- which
one can I use?
A: See Our Compatibility Chart
Q: How do I know if my cue is bent?
A: Roll your Cue on the snooker table to see if it is
bent
Q: What is the difference between Blue Diamond &
Elkmaster Tips?
A: Quality of Product- Blue diamond is recommended- (See Our Range Of
Tips)
Q: I have purchased a Cue & I need a Case- which one can I
use?
A: See Our Compatibility Chart
Q: Why is my cue rattling?
A: The weight in the butt of the cue has come loose- remove the
rubber butt
end and push some glue into the end to
secure the weight- (see our Range of Cues)
Q: Why cant I use a cue with a worn tip?
A: No! You will chip the balls or tear the cloth
Choosing The Right Tip For Your
Cue
With the number of tips available and the variety of sizes and
densities, selecting a tip can be
an overwhelming task. We're
here to answer some of the most frequent questions we've heard about tips.
Tip Density
As you know, different tips have different densities or levels of hardness ranging
from soft to extra hard.
At its most basic level, the softer the cue tip, the more
likely it is to mushroom or flatten out with
each hit of the cue ball.
What this means is that a soft
tip will require more maintenance than a harder tip.
Many players that prefer a soft tip believe there is a relation between tip softness
and control.
The feeling is the softer the tip, the more control you gain over
the ball. In addition, softer tips
are typically easier to scuff
and have better chalk retention.
The other camp has players who prefer a harder tip. Generally speaking, a harder cue
tip
will last longer and retain its shape better than a soft
tip. With a hard tip, you'll be replacing
your tip much less frequently than a soft tip. In addition, many
players who enjoy hard tips feel
that they can achieve more
control and consistency with a hard tip.
So Many To Choose From...
So
now that you know a little about tips, which one should you buy? By far, the
most
popular tip we have is the Blue Diamond Tips. These tips are
extremely affordable at
£27.62 for a box of 50 tips-
working out to only £0.55 Each.
If you're looking for a quality soft tip for a reasonable price, look no further
than the
Elkmaster Tips. These
tips, priced at £17.81 for a Box of 50 and are one of the more
popular soft tips
available.
Re-Tipping your Cue
We often get asked either in store or via email what is the
best way to tip a pool or snooker cue. Well in answer to
this question we have created this small article. We hope it is
of use.
Removing the old tip
To do this you need a sharp implement preferably a pen knife or
Stanley knife. For best results clamp the cue so that
it doesn't slip. Put electrical tape around the ferrule
to prevent scratches and give a bit of protection. Place the knife
between the top of the ferrule and the bottom of the tip
and cut away from yourself (recommended that an adult does this).
Most tips will come away fairly easily however some might
require a bit of a sawing action.
Replacing the tip
Make sure that both surfaces are clean:
• Remove old glue residue
• Remove chalk residue
To do this use a light sand paper but try to keep the ferrule
surface flat as if the top becomes rounded tips will be forever
coming off.
Place glue onto both surfaces (a very small amount is all that
is required). Easy Snooker recommends a gel based substance
like Tipping cement.
These glues allow you to move the tip around until it is in the
correct position.
Apply firm pressure to the tip for around 5 minutes and then
leave to dry for at least 2-3 hours (overnight for best results).
Make sure you clean up any residue glue protecting the ferrule
with tape again is a good idea.
Anatomy of a Pool
Cue-(see more)
Have you ever wondered about the difference between inlays or
points?
What about the difference between the collar and the rings on a pool
cue? Easy Snooker
is proud to present the Anatomy of a Pool Cue, otherwise known as
"Everything You've Ever
Wanted To Know About A Pool Cue But Were Too Afraid To Ask". This page
will give you the
basics of a pool cue, breaking out the 13 primary components of the pool
cue..... (see more)
How to Check a Snooker Cue for
Warping
When it comes to testing snooker cues for warping,
the process is a bit different than the process used for rolling
pool cues.
When checking a pool cue, you simply lay the cue on
the table, slowly roll it and watch the tip for "flopping". Because
of how
snooker cues are constructed, this process simply does not
work. Snooker cues feature a chamfer (the flat portion of the
butt),
which makes it impossible to "roll" the cue in the
traditional manner.
To solve this problem, we checked with Riley Snooker Cues who had
the following suggestions on checking snooker cues for warping:
"The correct way to sight the straightness of a snooker cue is to hold the
cue at the butt end and look down the length of the
cue with one eye - like when you would shoot a rifle, then
turn the butt of the cue 360 degrees while continuing to sight down
the
cue, you will then be able to tell if the cue is straight or
not."
As always, if you have any questions or need further assistance, please
don't hesitate to call us and one of our billiards
specialists
will be happy to help.
How To Check a Pool Cue for
Warping
Testing a pool cue to see if it's warped is one of the
easier tasks for a pool player. There are a few different ways
to check, but
by far the most popular and easiest way to see if your cue
is warped is to roll it on the table. Here's the step by step
breakdown:
1. Lay your cue down on a pool table (put it together first
if it's a two piece cue).
2. Slowly, roll your pool cue across the table.
3. Keep your eye on the tip of the cue and watch it
as you roll the cue. If the cue is warped, you'll see it watching the
tip, as the
cue will "flop" and roll unevenly across the
table.
Alternatively, you can hold the cue up at eye level and look
down the cue from the butt. Hold the cue out and slightly
downward,
slowly turning the cue as you look down the cue from the
butt to the tip.
Whenever you buy a pool cue, the first thing you should do
is roll it to make sure it isn't warped. If the cue rolls to your
satisfaction,
chalk it and play with it, but if you notice a significant
warp, call before chalking the cue in order to have a replacement
sent out.
It should also be noted that because pool cues are made of
wood, they will all warp over time.
Commonly asked Questions About
Balls
Q: Why are the balls chipped?
A: Leathers need replacing or cue tips are
missing
Q: Chipped Balls on a Pool Table?
A: Check your pocket liners and make sure the pins securing
them are
knocked in tightly. Also, make sure your
cue tips are not worn or missing
Why Buy Aramith Balls?
Buying Aramith Balls is worth Every Penny. Here's why-
Aramith Phenolic Resin - Why does this make a
difference?
Heavy Duty Design
Cheaper alternatives in the ball set market are generally
constructed from polyester. With these sets the
numbers (in the case of pool balls) are simply plugged
into the main ball. Aramith precision engrave the
numbers into a solid core that runs all the way through the
ball. This means that it is impossible for the
number cores to fall out. Aramith balls have homogenous
parts so that even when they reach breaking point
(you would need a load of 5-ton to break one), the ball breaks
at random not along the number core line.
Burn-Spot Resistant
A cue ball when struck accelerates from 0 to over 20mph in just
a fraction of a second. This causes friction
between the ball and cloth, the temperature of this friction
can reach 250°c. Being made from Phenolic resin
means the balls are resistant to the resultant burn-spot (flat
spot) on the balls surface. They maintain there
shine far longer than other balls. This means minimal ball and
cloth wear, which in turn means that they
save money as balls and cloths need to be replaced
less.
High Impact Resistant
Tests have shown that Aramith Phenolic Billiard Balls
withstand over 50 times more impacts that polymer or
polyester balls. They are also far more scratch
resistant. This means yet again that buying Aramith balls
saves money in the long run as they are less likely to be
damaged by poorly maintained tables.
Commonly asked Questions About
Lighting
Q: Why is it wrong to use fluorescent tube fittings over a
snooker table?
A: The effect from the light is stroboscopic and will cause the
moving
ball to appear stationary- See
Lighting 2000
Q: I have just Purchased a coin meter- Can you install it
for me?
A: We have a dedicated company for all our Customer Electrical Work-
See Electrician
Q: The light on my snooker table is poor- how can I overcome
this?
A: Take a look at our New Lighting 2000 System
Q: I have just Purchased a Lighting Shade- Can you install
it for me?
A: We have a dedicated company for all our Customer Electrical Work-
See Our Electrician
Commonly asked Questions About
Snooker Tables
Q: Why are the balls bouncing out of the
pockets?
A: Pockets might need plugging and adjusting- we can do this for
you
Q: What are the measurements for the Markings on my Snooker
Table
A: Go to the Table below
Q: How long should the cloth on my new snooker table
last?
A: This depends on the type of cloth used- With 6811
Cloth & Regular Maintenance about 2- Years
Q: When I take a shot, the ball does not run in a straight line-
why?
A: Table may need re-levelling- we can do this for
you
Q: Does the Temperature of the room affect Play
A: Yes! The Balls will run slower than in a warm room- See Table
Heating
Q: After I get my table recovered- it will need a
stretch. How long after?
A: About 6- Months- we can do this for you
Q: A hole is appearing in the cloth by the spot- why is
this?
A: Spot is missing. Ball being banged onto spot by
players
Q: My snooker table has just been recovered- how long will the
cloth last?
A: Providing the Cloth is Stretched. About 2-
Years
Q: How can I check to see if my table is level?
A: Only an experienced Billiard Fitter can do this- we can do this
for you
Q: I can feel a ridge under the cloth when I iron the
table- what is this?
A: This is slate misalignment and means your table needs
re-levelling
Q: I can see the slate through the cloth in the pockets- what is
this?
A: The cloth is badly worn and your table needs recovering- (see
Recovering Services)
Q: How do I know when my table cloth needs a stretch?
A: Table is really slow to play on and there is some wear
in the pocket areas
Q: How do I know when my table needs recovering?
A: Your Table is slow to play on and there is extensive wear in
the pocket area
Q: When I hit the ball against the cushion- I hear a thud-
what is this?
A: Missing Cushion Bolts or loose cushion
Q: When I hit a ball against a cushion it comes away slow-
why?
A: Cushion height needs adjusting or needs
re-rubber
Q: How long do the rubbers last on a snooker
table?
A: Approximately 10- Years
Q: The balls keep falling on the floor when potted-
why?
A: Pocket nets need replacing
Q: Why is there a shadow behind the snooker
balls?
A: Shade height needs adjusting to base of shade 29" from
top of table
Q: The balls jump when the ball hits a cushion
A: Build up of grease on cushion nose- caused by food/
drink
Q: Can I Recover my own Snooker Table?
A: Yes!- We have Recovering Kits Complete with Downloadable
Manual- (See Recovery Kits)
Measurements for Marking Billiard/ Snooker
Tables
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Table Size
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Baulk Line
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Diameter of the 'D'
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Top Spot
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4ft
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9"
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7"
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4 ¾
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5ft
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11 ½
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9"
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5 ¾
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6ft
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14"
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11"
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6 ¾
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7ft
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16 ½
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13"
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7 ¾
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8ft
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19"
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15"
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8 ¾
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9ft
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21 ½
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17"
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9 ¾
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10ft
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24"
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19"
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10 ¾
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11ft
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26 ½
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21"
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11 ¾
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12ft
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29"
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23"
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12 ¾
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**All measurements are taken from the face edge of the
cushion**
Blue Spot- exactly in the centre of the Snooker Table
Pink Spot- exactly half way between the Blue
Spot and face edge of the Top Cushion
Table Maintenance 999
We have put some information
together for you that should help you keep your Pool Tables or Snooker Tables
running like new
for a long time to
come!
It's simple, really. Just study this short list of
potentially destructive implements, interlopers and elements and keep them
away from the table:
Chalk. Cue tips. Balls. Dogs. Cats. Jewellery. Coins.
Heat. Moisture. Your bottom. Frisky neighbours and family members. The sun.
That's right. Sometimes, a table's greatest enemies are
the game itself and its owners, especially if they forget to treat the
table like the piece of fine furniture it
is.
Of course, no one wants to keep a table locked in a
temperature-controlled vault or really large mayonnaise jar.
We asked some of the billiard industry's leading
manufacturers, distributors and service providers to spill some maintenance
tips you can follow - and a few common-sense warnings
you can observe - that will allow you to both enjoy your table and
pass it on to future generations.
Chalk - Too much is
devastating
There may be nothing that looks cooler than the
absent-minded way a Pro chalks up between each shot, but the lingering dust
is playing a deadly game with your table felt.
The chalk is abrasive; it gets into the cloth and destroys it.
Brushing the table frequently - even after every
session - is a good start, but realize that 50 percent of the chalk dust actually
gets
brushed into the cloth.
Suction with a small vacuum is the only way to go.
Otherwise, you could end up with a layer of dust thick under your felt.
This would create the impression that the table was
uneven.
But too powerful a vacuum could lift and stretch your
fabric. We suggest using a brush with soft bristles for daily use.
Always brush in the direction of the Nap.
Coins you flip on the table creates minute cuts in the
felt that develop into tears;
and digging your cue tip into the cloth on jump
shots is utterly devastating.
The Sun-
Damage!
"You'd be surprised how many people put tables in a
room with a big window, and after a year the cloth is faded.
Obviously, sunlight will fade the cloth. It can also
bleach the table's finish.
If you want to play on your table in the sun- always
use a
Table Cover when you
finish!
You also should gauge the level of moisture in your
environment- we have Under Table Heaters specifically for this purpose.
Humidity levels of 40 percent to 60 percent is the best
possible environment for fine wood.
Also on the subject of light we warn against using
incandescent bulbs above your table.
"The heat will dry out your cloth," he says. Instead,
try The Lighting 2000.
Sitting on the Table
The No. 1 thing people do with their pool table is sit
on it."
This will cause the rubber to fall off the cushions
They typically are glued to the cushion bodies, and can only take so much
weight before breaking off.
Sitting on the table can also make the legs become
loose and eventually cause the table to wobble.
Keep Pets at bay
Urine. One of the most corrosive things on the
planet.
So, keep the pets away from your table.
"You want to keep water away from the wood. A caution
that includes keeping all drinks off the Cushions.
Hard woods are much less conducive to absorption,
whereas soft woods expand and contract more easily.
And in case of unavoidable spills, it might be wise to
apply a fabric sealant like Scotch Gard to your felt.
Clean balls means a clean
Table!
Balls pick up dust and chalk and then reapply them to
the table and cushions.
It would be wise to clean your snooker balls
after each session and the cue ball after each game.
Also be aware of the intense heat that is briefly
generated by a ball after it is struck and is skidding along the felt.
Some industry experts place the temperature of that
friction at more that 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and it's enough to
damage the felt and melt the exteriors of certain
varieties of balls, leaving track marks on tables.
Watch The Infra- Red Video Below!
"The white marks you see on old tables are burn marks.
We recommend using Snooker Balls or Pool Balls made with
Phenolic resin, which best resist the degrading effects
of friction heat.
Friction heat also is generated when stroking the cue
against the rails and the pockets, so avoid pockets with a glazed or
painted finish.
The Woodwork
Protect your finish. For a hard, lacquer finish -
including polyester, urethane or catalyzed varnish finishes - use lemon oil
applied with a soft cloth.
DO NOT a silicone-based consumer product such as
Pledge, which can eat into the finish.
For a painted finish use paste wax made with carnauba
wax, which provides a thin coating to protect the
wood and finish.
For leather pockets apply saddle soap with a
soft cloth, letting it dry for 15 or 20 minutes, and then brushing
it with a shoe or billiard brush.
Table Maintenance
After your first year of ownership, you should consider
having a Billiard Mechanic come and give your table the once-over.
Easy Snooker offer a Maintenance Contract, or
can direct you to a suitable mechanic. You also can look in the yellow pages
for billiard sales and service firms.
Here are the areas your mechanic should examine, plus a few tips for
performing your own diagnosis:
• Is the table slate still level? - use a
builders level to determine this.
• Are the Cushion Rubbers still
attached tightly to the cushions? - Feel along the side of each cushion for
depressions
in the nose,which usually are created by
stapling the felt too tightly to the rail.
• Are there any obvious signs of wear on the cloth, and
is it still tight?
You should be able to place your open palm on
the cloth and put your weight on it without moving the fabric.
• Has the table slate shifted, or have seams opened up
between the pieces of slate?
You can normally feel the ridge under the cloth
when ironing.
• Are the rail bolts still tight?
You can check these with a heavy duty
brace.
• Is the cabinet still sound and tight?
Physically check all nuts and bolts
• Are there any surface cracks?
The timbers may be rotting if the table has been
stored in a damp environment.
If nothing else, have your table examined whenever you
change your cloth.
Easy Snooker can provide a thorough examination of your
Snooker Table or Pool Table for you.
If you require any further advice, do not hesitate to
call us. We are only a phone call away!
Commonly asked Questions About Pool
Tables
Q: What are the measurements for the Markings on my Pool
Table
A: Go o the Table below
Q: Why is the white ball smaller than the colours on a Pub Pool
Table?
A: If the white ball is sent into a pocket, it is sent through
a chamber that
is too small for the colours to fall
through- it then passes out the end
of the table without taking any
money
Q: I can see the slate through the cloth in the pockets- what is
this?
A: The cloth is badly worn and your table needs recovering- (see
Recovering Services)
Q: What is speed cloth?
A: Speed cloth is designed for American pool tables for
speed. You do not need
to use this cloth on English Pool Tables-
(see our Range of Cloth)
Q: In my local club we are not allowed to eat food in the pool
room-
why is this?
A: The grease from food is impossible to remove from the
cloth.
Q: I am not allowed to smoke while playing- why?
A: The hot ash falling from a cigarette will burn through the
cloth
Q: Can I sit on my pool table?
A: No! This will cause damage to the cushions
Q: Can I mark the table out with a felt tip?
A: No! This will ruin the cloth when the stretch
decreases
Q: Why do I need spots on my table
A: To stop the balls damaging the cloth- (see our Range of
Spots)
Q: The balls jump when the ball hits a cushion
A: Grease on the cushion caused by food/ drink
Q: Can I Recover my own Pool Table?
A: Yes!- We have Recovering Kits Complete with Downloadable Manual-
(See Recovery Kits)
Measurements for Marking UK
Pool Tables
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Table Size
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Baulk Line
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Diameter of the 'D'
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Top Spot
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5ft
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13¼
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8
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14⅛
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6ft
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14¼
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11
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16¾
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7ft
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16¾
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12
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19¾
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8ft
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18
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13
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22⅞
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9ft
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21
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16
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24⅝
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What To Look For When Buying A New Snooker
Table-
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Many people wishing to purchase a new
billiard table are tentative because they feel they know very little
about the product. Indeed, most purchasers buy only one table in their
lifetime. We therefore offer the following suggestions for guidance purposes
only.
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1. Billiard
Table Cushions
The performance of the
cushions on a table is crucial, particularly the speed and angle of
response. As a means of minimizing costs, many new tables are available with cushions
that perform poorly. This is due to these tables being manufactured with a
cushion that has been constructed in a way which we regard as inadequate. The
issue of cushions is important since replacement of cushions costs several
hundred pounds
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2. The Cloth
on the Table
The most highly regarded
billiard cloths are manufactured in England and the best of these in
the west of England. A true English billiard cloth
is made from wool and has a directional
nap on the surface. If you rub it lightly in one direction, it gives a
smooth feeling to the hand.
Rubbed in the opposite direction it has a
rough resistant feel. The better qualities of billiard cloth are very fine so
that when the Snooker ball is in motion it rolls on – there is
relatively little friction to arrest its travel.
The quality of cloth is important, as, once again, replacement of inferior cloth
with the high quality article costs several hundred pounds.
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3. The
Pockets
The brackets holding the
pocket nets should be of metal. Some are made of plastic which tends
to break; some of these have a "metallised"
surface on the plastic so that they appear
to be more durable than they actually are. We recommend that the pocket nets
should be fastened to the table using a strong wire. Use of staples tends to
be inadequate – if the nets are stapled to the underside of the table the
staples tend to come away under the pressure of heavily struck balls. In this
event while the nets may remain perfectly good, the balls when potted will
drop to the floor damaging them or the floor surface, or both. The metal
brackets should be covered in strong leather which protects the balls as they
strike the bracket before dropping into the net. We recommend that you check
the fitting of the leathers to ensure that there is no position where the
balls will actually strike the metal direct, allowing such damage to
occur.
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4.
Timbers
Billiard tables
should be made from quality furniture timbers. Use of custom wood or
particleboard is not adequate. The table framework must
be strong enough to carry the heavy weight
of the slate bed. Over time materials such as custom wood or particle
board are unlikely to continue to take the strain.
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5. The
Slate
A quality billiard table
will have a bed of slate. Slate should provide more consistency in
keeping the table level than other known substitutes.
Such a level surface is essential if the
balls are to run true. When considering a table look underneath it. The slate
should be lying flat, totally resting on the under frame. If this is not so,
over time the slate is likely to sink under its own weight until it does lie
on the surface of the frame.
That is, the table will move out of level.
If you see a series of wooden wedges between the top of the frame and the
underside of the slate, we suggest that you do not buy the table because,
here, the table has been presented so that it is level temporarily. It is
likely to remain so only in the short term. Such wedges have a tendency to
become loose or they may drop out. Then the position of the slate will change
and the table will be out of level. If a table is correctly constructed the
levelling process in your home is carried out by means of adjustment from the
base of the legs.
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All new tables are made to look as attractive as possible, which
makes your choice difficult. We suggest that if you are looking at a table
which carries no brand name, pass it by.
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