Most pattern instructions tell you to run two rows of ease stitching along the edge of the sleeve cap between the notches.
Once you have done the stitching, you are told to match up the markings on the sleeve and armhole, pull the ease-stitch threads to gather the sleeve, and stitch the sleeve and the garment together. As you can see from the picture below, the results can be disappointing. No amount of pressing will remove a pucker once it’s stitched into place.
Why does this happen? Using machine ease stitching, you don’t have as much control over the distribution of the ease in the sleeve. But fear not! You can easily take back control and get great results. I have two favorite methods for inserting a sleeve: pin-easing and hand-basting. Both are worth the extra time they take, and both yield smooth, lovely results.Pin-easing
Pin-easing, sometimes called "pin-basting" is really easy. Instead of using easestitching, simply use a whole lot of pins to ease the sleeve into the armhole. First, match up your markings (notches, dots, etc) and pin. Position your pins perpendicular to the seamline. Then pin between the markings, distributing the ease as you go. To get the best results, I position my pins between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch apart. You don’t need to space the pins that closely in the un-eased part of the seam. You can then sew your seam, being careful to remove the pins before your needle hits them.Hand-basting
I often add an extra step before sewing the seam, and after pin-easing, I often hand baste my sleeve to the garment. This gives one more level of control over the ease, and I can then sew without pins in my fabric. It is also very worthwhile when sewing finicky fabrics. I always hand baste taffeta and other stiff fabrics, and it makes handling slippery fabrics (like charmeuse) so much easier.When sewing the sleeve into your garment on your machine, take your time and use your fingers to manipulate the fabric to avoid any tiny puckers. This ensures a smooth set sleeve. Check out the difference in the sleeve below ("The Happy Sleeve") vs the first one ("The Sad Sleeve")
I really encourage you to try out these methods. They don't take a lot of extra time, but they sure do pay off in a great-looking finished garment.Happy sewing!
30 comments:
Thanks for the tutorial! This a trouble spot for me! Do you ever recommend cutting down the sleeve cap? I have done this for Simplicity and Mccall patterns, and had good results. Between the notches, I used a french curve to grade a size down. Love to hear your thoughts. And Happy New Year.
I almost always pin first and then hand baste, especially if the sleeve is close fitting. Also with pin basting I bring the pin out right at the seamline, pointing away from the cut edge. This really keeps even the tiniest puckers from happening because the pin eases the fabric at the seam line. Years ago Threads did a story on Charles Kliebacker and I noticed that how he does pin basting. I copied his idea and it works!
I've been using the pin-easing/pin-basting to set in a sleeve. It is time consuming, but well worth it. I have never had to take out a sleeve or make any adjustments afterwards. It takes patience and practice. Great tutorial and pictures...Susan
I have always done it this way too! In fact, my theory has been that some sewers avoid pin basting because sewing dealers tell their customers never sew over pins. I was always told it was okay to sew over pins and have always pin basted, then machine or handbasted the sleeve into the armhole.
Pin basting takes a bit of time, a few ouches, but "sew" worth it.
My tailor aunt taught my mother that machine easing was fine, but that one must never, ever use two lines of stitching; that would make it "gathering" and that's exactly what we try to avoid in a sleeve. Out of respect for her memory, I skip the second line of stitching. I run one line of ease stitching (Gigi calls it "ease plus") one thread-width inside the seam allowance, before I pin (and pin and pin) the sleeve in place. Works 99% of the time. For the other 1%, skip prayer and proceed directly to muttered swearing as a sewing aid.
Good post! It's worth that little bit of extra time. Another thing I've found is that the sleeve needs a little extra support to avoid collapsing and sagging once sewn. A little sleeve head can make a big difference in the way the finished set-in sleeve looks.
Thank you for the tutorial. I hate doing set-in sleeves so I tend to rush the process so it gets over with faster. Clearly that is not the right attitude. :(
Thanks for the advice. I usually follow the method Karla described (learned from a M. Islander workshoop). First, I pull the thread as if to gather, then loosen it to fit the sleeve. I've had good luck with this but am ready (after my latest vintage blouse) to give another method a try. Thanks!
Thanks for the great information, I'll give it a whirl next time I sew a set-in sleeve.
This is so timely. Hopefully my woeful top did not prompt this blog entry but if it did I'm okay with it. My sleeve sucks and I'll be removing the stitching today and hopefully reattaching it tomorrow. :) Happy New Year!!
Thanks so much for the tutorial, I will give it a try soon.
Another Threads article recommended on knits to (I always have to pull the article, so this may be wrong in order) to match the markings and use the sewing machine and feed dogs to ease the sleeve in, flat construction. I think you put the sleeve on the bottom layer, the bodice on top. Do not sew the underarm seam to join the sleeve ends (or the bodice side) until you have set the sleeve in, you sew it with the bodice sides in one swoop. Look at Threads website, I think it is posted there. It has worked for me, but take your time and do it as a larger stitch first. You can always do a 2nd pass with a smaller stitch once you see it has no puckers.
Thanks for this very useful info and pics! I can see that I need to use more closely spaced needles than I had been using for pin-easing. Can't wait to try it on my next set in sleeves!
Excellent post. The little bit of extra time spent is well worth the result of a perfect sleeve.
After I tried this method I haven't used any other, my sleeves come out right every time. I first read your tutorial in Be sew stylish.
I am so glad to know that I can go back to the technique I learned first, 40+ years ago--pin basting. I inserted sleeves that way for many years and then somehow was steered to two rows of basting, one inside the seam line and one outside the seam line. It works ok but I still wind up using lots of pins as I think the gathering stitches can slip. When pin basting I pin from the inside of the sleeve, folding the fabric backwards over my finger before I pin. I think this uses the "turn of the cloth" principle. That bit of sleeve being on the outside of that fold is longer resulting in a little bit of extra fabric being eased. Now, I can go back to pin basting as the technique does not really take that long.
I am a fairly new sewer, and jacket sleeves have baffled me. I am working on a jacket right now, and plan on using this method immediately. Thank you so very much for taking the time to post these instructions and take the pictures. This really helps! I wish you and your family a blessed New Year!
This is great info and I will try it next time I set in a sleeve.
Your tutorials and reviews are so helpful to me, thanks!
Thanks for this, I had never heard of setting a sleeve this way. When you sew the sleeve in, do you have the sleeve or bodice on top?
Thank you for the tutorial - I will try this next time!
Should try it this way sometime, I always make two rows of stitching and ease. Thanks for a great explanation.
This is like an after Xmas gift! Thanks, Ann. I've read about this method before, but never tried it. I'll definitely do so now, seeing the wonderful results. Thanks again for sharing. Creating beautifully set-in sleeves is always of major concern to me.
I have been doing it this way for years. When the "sewing without pins" movement came along, I felt guilty. Thanks for the affirmation.
I always ("always" ha! I don't have that much experience) pin baste and then baste. I don't have sufficient control and I'm not in a huge rush, usually.
I tend to baste everything. I'd much rather increase the chances of success on the first try.
I should add that I was taught to sew two rows of ease-stitching in the cap in the seam allowance with shirring thread in the bobbin. It doesn't cause gathering; that only happens when I haven't managed to pin and baste the sleeve to the body quite right.
Great post. I really, really needed this for an unfinished jacket that I have hanging in my stash closet. Do you have this tutorial (with pictures) available in pdf for printing. Thanks in advance for your answer.
Thank you again for this post. I tried the pin-easing this morning on a knit top. I am very excited that I got it right the first time. Great tutorial.
thank you soooo much for the tip and the pictures.the made it more clear. i was about to give up sewin because of this sleeve nightmare.
Thanks for the tip and pictures. I will have to try this.
Do you sew with the bodice side or sleeve side up?
Lynn
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