Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Suit Buying: a few points to ponder

When buying a new suit one is faced with many things to consider. I will attempt to help clear up a few of these choices and explain what to look for in a quality suit. First, if you are buying a suit for a specific occasion, say a wedding, funeral, job interview, etc. you should make sure you understand what is appropriate in the areas of color, style, and weight. 

Most traditional occasions like those mentioned previously lend themselves to a conservative suit. Conservative colors include navy blue, charcoal gray, and black. Pinstripe patterns in those colors where the stripes are very thin and hardly noticeable at a few yards are also acceptable. Bold stripes or window pane patterns are not terribly traditional and should be avoided for these situations. 

As for the style of the suit, a two or three button jacket with a notched lapel would certainly fit the conservative mold. A one, four, or five button suit is really more of a fashion statement than a sign of respect. The notched lapel is a traditional American look that has become the standard. Peaked lapels are a bit more fashion forward but they can be acceptable if they are conservatively colored. No notch lapels are most often reserved for tuxedos and at any of these functions unless you are in a tuxedo it can be a strange look. 

When it comes to suit weight the issue is comfort. Heavier weights are often worn in cooler weather and lighter weights are designed for warmer temperatures. The year round or all season weights that have become popular help to bridge that gap. If you are buying one traditional suit that you plan on wearing year round go with the all season weight or a light weight and buy an overcoat. If you are buying several suits or money is not a concern then buy what you like. 

One thing you must consider is the fabric. Good quality worsted wool will last the longest, look the best, breathe quite well, and costs near the middle of the fabric pack. Polyester will wear quickly, look shabby, breathe like plastic, and cost the least. Polyester blends offer very little improvement over straight polyester as the stronger polyester fibers will wear out the wool or silk fibers quickly. Silk and other natural fibers have their benefits but often do not last nearly as long as worsted wool. 

I hope this helps with your suit shopping, in later posts on this subject I'll cover fitting, and body types. Also, look for reviews of clothing stores and other businesses in the coming months.

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