Mark Bittman’s Sustainable Thanksgiving

Raw Butternut Squash Salad With Cranberry DressingAndrew Scrivani for The New York Times Raw Butternut Squash Salad With Cranberry Dressing

The New York Times food writer Mark Bittman sometimes calls himself a “less-meatarian’’ to explain how his diet has changed over the years.

Mr. Bittman, the author of the new “Food Matters Cookbook: 500 Revolutionary Recipes for Better Living,’’ has adopted a mostly plant-based diet, but because he doesn’t want to give up meat or other animal products entirely, he’s only a vegan before dinner. At the evening meal, he eats whatever he feels like eating. Mr. Bittman also likes the term “conscious omnivore,’’ which he first saw on the blog Vegan.com.

“I quite like the term,’’ says Mr. Bittman. “Eat what you want to eat, but do it in an intelligent way that’s consistent with what we know is going to allow for good health and sustainability.’’

In the new cookbook, Mr. Bittman shows how easy it is to cut back on animal products and processed foods without sacrificing flavor or the pleasures of eating. For Well’s Vegetarian Thanksgiving series, Mr. Bittman offers four recipes, including a sophisticated black kale and olive salad, a crunchy apple slaw, a surprising salad made with raw butternut squash and a simple couscous and cranberry dish that will look at home on any holiday table.

All the dishes are easy steps toward a more sustainable way of eating, he says. “If at any stage of the day, at any meal you eat, you ask yourself if you can substitute a minimally processed plant food, then you’ve made the right decision,’’ he says. “There’s rarely an instance where eating a fruit or vegetable or legume is a bad idea.’’

See all Mr. Bttiman’s recipes below, and be sure to check out our interactive recipe page featuring all the dishes in the Well Vegetarian Thanksgiving series.

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Mark Bittman’s
Black Kale and Black Olive Salad

Black kale, which is actually dark green, is also called Tuscan kale or lacinato kale. “It’s so good for you and hard to go wrong with it,’’ says Mr. Bittman.

1 large bunch black kale (about 1 pound), cut into thin ribbons
1/2 cup black olives, pitted and chopped
1/4 cup grated Parmesan or other hard cheese
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Salt
Black pepper

1. Combine the kale, olives and cheese in a large bowl. Drizzle with the oil and vinegar, sprinkle with salt (not too much) and lots of pepper, and toss.

2. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to an hour.

Yield: 4 servings.

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Mark Bittman’s
Apple Slaw

This dish of chopped radishes, cabbage and apples creates a fresh, crunchy and juicy salad for your table.

1/4 cup olive oil
1 heaping teaspoon Dijon or other good-quality mustard, or to taste
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon honey
2 cups cored and shredded red cabbage (about 8 ounces)
2 medium Granny Smith or other tart, crisp apples, cored and shredded or grated
8 radishes, chopped
1 red onion, chopped or grated
Salt
Black pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

1. Put the oil, mustard, lemon juice and honey in a large bowl and whisk until well combined.

2. Add the cabbage, apples, radishes and onion and toss until thoroughly combined. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to serve. (It’s best to let the slaw rest for an hour or so to allow the flavors to mellow. You can let it sit even longer, up to a few hours, before the apples start to discolor; just drain the slaw before continuing.)

3. Just before serving, toss with the parsley. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Yield: 4 servings.

Mark Bittman’s
Raw Butternut Squash Salad With Cranberry Dressing

“People aren’t accustomed to eating raw butternut squash,” Mr. Bittman says. “But when it’s grated, it has this wonderful, crunchy quality, and it’s also very pretty.”

1/2 cup fresh or frozen cranberries, picked over and rinsed
3/4 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon minced ginger
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon honey
Salt
Black pepper
1 butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled and seeded

1. Combine the cranberries, orange juice and ginger in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the berries have begun to break, 10 minutes or so. Remove from the heat and add the oil, honey and some salt and pepper. Stir until well combined.

2. Meanwhile, grate the butternut squash by hand or in a food processor. Transfer the squash to a large bowl, add the warm cranberry dressing, and toss to combine everything. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Or cover and refrigerate the salad for up to several hours; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Yield: 4 servings.

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Mark Bittman’s
Couscous Salad With Dried Cranberries and Pecans

This combination of pecans, cranberries and couscous has the feel and flavor of a classic Thanksgiving dish. It can also be made a day in advance.

1 cup couscous, preferably whole wheat
Salt
2 large carrots, grated
1/2 cup chopped pecans
1/2 cup chopped dried cranberries
1/4 cup chopped scallions
1/4 cup olive oil, or more as needed
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, or more juice as needed
1 teaspoon coriander
Pinch of cayenne, or to taste
Black pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or 1 teaspoon dried

1. Put the couscous in a small pot and add 1 1/2 cups water and a pinch of salt. Bring the water to a boil, then cover and remove from the heat. Let steep for at least 10 minutes, or up to 20.

2. Put the slightly cooled couscous in a large salad bowl along with the carrots, pecans, cranberries, scallions, oil and lemon zest and juice, and sprinkle with the spices and salt and pepper. Use 2 big forks to combine, fluffing the couscous and tossing gently to separate the grains. (The salad can be made up to this point and refrigerated for up to a day; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. Stir in the parsley and sage. Taste and adjust the seasoning, moisten with a little more oil and lemon juice as you like, and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

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Thanks for the recipes…They look wonderful in the photos ;-)

I’m going to check Mark Brittan’s work as I’m always looking for new dishes. I really like the idea of “conscious omnivore”, by the way.

I’m signalling your blog on mine as I think you’re providing a great service with your posts.

Hope to read from you soon,

— Janet

//www.helplosingweight-janet.com

These look wonderful and I will probably end up making all of them at some point, but one shouldn’t be lulled into thinking that “no meat” equates to “sustainable.” Unless you live in California, your olives and lemons will most likely have taken a long journey to get to your table; same goes for the Granny Smith apples, which probably came from New Zealand, and your Parmesan, which might have been made locally but is more likely to have come from Italy.

I’m not advocating a localvore diet; I do try to buy locally produced food whenever I can, but I’m not a fanatic about it. But I don’t for a moment think that my diet is sustainable for the planet. Cutting down on meat is just one step in that direction. You can eat more sustainably without too much effort, but to eat a diet that is truly sustainable for the planet is very different proposition.

I’m allergic to both oranges and pecans, so even though these dishes look tasty, I’d have to adapt them for our table. They’d do well in our house any day of the week–except Thanksgiving. I suspect the family would mutiny if I replaced their favorites, which incidentally are available local and sustainably, with these tasty new dishes.

In what I hope adds to our understanding of sustainability, I’ve got up a new post on my humble little blog about visiting a sustainable farm. I think the pictures say it all: //ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com/2010/11/17/why-sustainable-farms-are-healthier-farms-in-pictures/

Thanks again, Tara, for this great series on Thanksgiving food!

All of these look so great! I already have his cookbook and I can’t believe how many interesting recipes there are in it. I look forward to trying these.

//www.snack-girl.com/

That apple slaw looks divine! I love apples and finding new ways to do radishes. Perfect!

Brad is right about sustainability — if you think in terms of what it costs the planet, Italian Parmesan should cost about $50/lb to buy on the Eastern seaboard. A good rule of thumb is to only buy/use as much as you would if that was the price you had to pay. And use local apples. (Apple cider vinegar is a great lemon juice alternative.)

Raw butternut is something I’ve never had. Interesting. It’s nice how three of these recipes are mainly raw, not only eliminating dead meat, but keeping the food extra alive. Looks great!

//www.foodfitnessfreshair.com

This is a list of four salads! My family and friends have been having huge and varied, completely vegetarian Thanksgiving dinners for 25 years, including mostly cooked dishes like grain stuffing with nuts, yam pies, panir (or Tofu) and gravy, broccoli-cheese, various cooked vegetables of the season and plenty of hot pies for dessert.
Being a vegetarian does not mean existing on salads.
Any good vegetarian cookbook – like Heaven’s Banquet by Miriam Hospadar – will point you in the direction of good-tasting sustainability.
Enjoy!

FROM TPP — I think you have to consider this in the context of the entire Vegetarian Thanksgiving series. To see the variety of foods on offer, go the display page. I specifically asked Mark for salad recipes since we had so far presented mostly hot dishes for the series. //www.nytimes.com/interactive/2010/11/08/health/20101108_thanksgiving.html?ref=health

Brad and SKV have some good points. Eating less meat is a good step in the right direction, but most of the ingredients in these recipes comes from somewhere else, unless you live in California.

But food from overseas often costs less to ship and may use less energy. It’s a lot easier to float something on water than drive it across the country in a comparatively small truck. I’d say $50/lb is too much. For example, I’ve read elsewhere that it actually involves less energy if Americans buy their lamb from New Zealand than from somewhere out West. Same principle. The sheep are husbanded in a sustainable manner and then shipped over water.

It all looks so cold and not-comforting. Couldn’t there at least be some mashed potatoes and gravy? Or a soup?


FROM TPP — Again, see the variety of foods on offer in the entire Vegetarian Thanksgiving series, including variations on classics like mashed potatoes.

@MM: until we go back to using large sailing ships for transporting cargo (which is actually under serious consideration in some circles), shipping is a pretty carbon-intensive and polluting form of transport; it accounts for an estimated 3-5 percent of global carbon dioxide emissions, which is actually more than the emissions from the entire airline industry.

@brad: what is the percentage accounted for by trucking?

….and ALL transport industries do not surpass the livestock industry in terms of greenhouse gas emissions, so the term “conscious omnivore” personally leaves me perplexed.

FROM FAO:
//www.fao.org/newsroom/en/news/2006/1000448/index.html

FAO FULL REPORT: //www.fao.org/docrep/010/a0701e/a0701e00.HTM

I love your self description, “lessmeatarian”.

Meals in Mexico are built around meat as a flavor contribution, as in soups and stews, but not necessarily the main dish. And eating less meat is sometimes the only way we can get in the prescribed amount of veggies, plus it’s cheaper.

//cookinginmexico.com

That couscous salad sounds FAB. Can’t wait to try it!

I love salads and they sound and look great. Happy Thanksgiving America.

Some very nice additions for my vegan Thanksgiving table. My grown children don’t miss the turkey because of the presence of fantastic tastes in veg dishes such as these. Want to eat sustainably? You know the real answer to that. Happy no-Turkey Day, everyone!

If you follow Mark’s column and his books, you need not worry about a depth of vegetarian dishes and magic in his repertoire. They are there for any and all to enjoy.

I am excited to see these salads and will play with them after Thanksgiving myself. Our menu is already planned and shopped for.

Mark’s cooking is sensible, no-nonsense and most of all delicious and satisfying. Things many cookbook authors and chefs cannot deliver – all at once.

Excited to see the buzz around vegetarian and Thanksgiving menus this year. The paper has done a good job collecting recipes. And again, all one has to do is go back to the recipes and books featured in the paper over the years and you will find many options available to you.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

These recipes look easy and delicious. It’s great so many chefs are excited about sharing their vegetarian creations.

We have to consider the impact America’s high per capita consumption of animal products is having on the long term health of our ecosystems. Over-fishing by industrialized fishing fleets is putting a huge strain on fisheries around the world. In addition to causing enormous amounts of animal cruelty, establishing more animal factory farms in America and around the world could further exacerbate climate change, land degradation, deforestation and water pollution and consumption, spread zoonotic diseases such as avian and swine influenza, harm rural economies, increase grain prices (grain is fed to cows and other animals once they are taken off pasture), and undermine food security.

To prevent the spread of factory farming, we all have to start reducing the amount of meat, dairy and egg consumption in our diets.

I have seen numerous photos of Mark Bittman’s food creations. I have tried many also. I like them but I still eat meat moderately but often. When you show Mark’s food creations you should also show a recent photo of Mark Bittman to allow all of us to see just what progress the food is doing for Mark.
We all know a picture is worth a thousand works.

Sustainable? Locally harvested venison, potatoes, corn and squash – that’s sustainable.

A surprising source of good vegan recipes online is… the Ellen Degeneres Show website. I think it takes courage for a mainstream celebrity to take up a cause as polarizing as veganism and spoonfeeding it to Middle America in the guise of entertainment.

My husband and I tried the couscous salad tonight, adding chickpeas for some protein, and some green pepper I needed to use up. Otherwise, we kept to the recipe above. It was delicious! (And a great, light supper so that we can enjoy the heavy feasting to come….) I could see making this over the weekend for lunch for our guests, as well, when everyone is sick of heavy food and Thanksgiving leftovers.

Ouch! The squash recipe was awful. Our grated squash didn’t look anything like yours, it was mushy and slimy even before we added the sauce. Consensus in the kitchen voted it off the island. We threw it into the trash. We are devotees of How to Cook Everything, but this recipe was an epic Thanksgiving fail.

I agree with Nick’s “Ouch!”

I made the squash recipe Wednesday, exactly as written, and couldn’t get past the butternut tasting much as I imagine a mouthful of saddle soap would taste like.
It wasn’t slimy, at least.

So, I tried adding cinnamon, grated daikon, and a few odd-n-ends to perk it up, and they helped a little but saddle soap was still the pervasive flavor, and the salad was a disappointment.

A friend stopped by and agreed that the dish was no good.
I let it refrigerate overnight, thinking that might help. Nope!

Before pitching the salad into the compost, I had a fortunate bit of inspiration!

Butternut-Cranberry Fritters!!

Neither healthful nor eco-groovy, they are perhaps a better alternative to trashing a prepared but unacceptable dish.

I added (no measuring; I was in a hurry):
an egg, white flour, white sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking powder, and a little more fresh chopped ginger.
Mixed it up and dropped heaping teaspoons of batter into a hot buttered iron pan, turned till golden on both sides.

Mmmmmmm… they were great! No more soap, and the hint of cranberry added a nice flavor. I’ll probably make these again!!