The bucolic Warren County countryside is the perfect place for a farm-to-table restaurant relying on locally raised produce, and Sweet Jane’s appears to be making the most of it.
The old Chew & Brew, a bar which went by several names over the years, has had quite an epiphany, transformed into a homey place featuring intriguing food accompanied by live music. Chef/owner Sheila Moriarty-Gaynor’s mission is “trying to get people to eat healthy,” and she produces many tasty ways to convince them — in case they haven’t heard — that the concept doesn’t mean just consuming sprouts.
The restaurant is named for the owner’s mother, Giovannina Natali, nicknamed Jane, who relished the offerings of the old family farm in Keansburg. Sweet Jane’s is also a family affair, with daughter Kathryn Moriarty working the front of the house and singing on occasion, while the chef’s husband, Kevin Gaynor, helps out when needed. Their dining room, which seats 47 cozily, has a big bar with a TV along one wall, peach tablecloths to soften the mood and a large oil painting featuring a farm scene with a big red barn — an unmistakable statement.
Moriarty-Gaynor, formerly employed in investment banking, had no formal training in the kitchen but got her culinary fine tuning at Picholine in New York from chef Terrance Brennan, who she met through a mutual friend.
The proprietor doesn’t make the mistake of getting too fancy with her offerings, hitting just the right notes for her clientele and the location. A chilled cucumber/dill soup ($5) simply says “refreshment” on a warm evening, while a cheese and herb tart on the side adds interest to the large portion of straightforward grilled rosemary chicken ($17). Pan-fried cod ($22) is coupled with green pesto and a mix of asparagus and peas for inspiration. The menu includes Italian specialties, such as eggplant rollatini with prosciutto and pasta ($18), but no cuisine predominates.
The effort that goes into everything is obvious. The Johnsonburger ($12), for instance, is far more than your basic burger. It’s a hunk of a giant Angus beef patty with cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and chipotle mayo for a nice little prickle. The hand-cut sweet potato fries that come with it need to be crisp, however; limp fries just don’t make it.
Like most items here, the burger says “value.” People may not want to spend a lot these days when they’re going out, but they like something interesting and filling for their money, a concept Moriarty-Gaynor obviously understands. The wine list is sufficiently extensive, with plenty of choice for less than $30.
There are only three dessert offerings, including hazelnut gelato ($6), decent cannolis ($6) and creamy orange/coconut cake ($8) that could easily serve two.
Where the restaurant has problems is in the category of service, which needs polish. It’s a real turn-off to have used knives and forks left on the table after a dish is finished, instead of being replaced for each course. A request for fresh flatware brought it to our table, but apparently without the awareness that this was the right way to do things, not just an off-the-wall demand. Meanwhile, our entrees arrived before the appetizer plates were cleared. We also didn’t appreciate sparkling wine that wasn’t chilled properly, and the beer that came without a glass.
More training should shape up the staff so that their work matches what’s coming out of the kitchen. With music added to the recipe, this tucked-away spot offers something off the beaten track.
Sweet Jane's Cafe and Bar
278 Main St., Johnsonburg. (908) 813-8404. sweetjanescafeandbar.com.
Hours: 5-9 p.m. Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays; 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Sundays. Closed Mondays-Wednesdays.
Cody Kendall's rating: Two and a half stars